Vintage 2016 — Frost, Hail and an Autumn Miracle

The Spring Drama

The 2016 vintage began as a nightmare. Severe late frost in late April destroyed a large portion of the young shoots in many vineyards. Just as the growers had recovered from this, a devastating hailstorm struck parts of the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims at the end of May. Harvest estimates plummeted to historic lows — in some villages by 50-70%.

Summer was mixed — neither particularly warm nor particularly cool, with adequate rainfall but without heat extremes. And then came September: golden, sunny, dry, with cool nights and warm days. A perfect harvest month that allowed the remaining grapes to ripen slowly and completely.

The Miracle of the Small Harvest

Few grapes means concentration. What the frost and hail had left behind was of exceptional quality: small berries with thick skins, concentrated juice and high natural acidity. The base wines immediately showed their potential — taut, mineral, with an almost electric tension.

Style of the Vintage

2016 is a vintage for purists. Where 2015 seduced with opulence, 2016 convinces with precision:

• High acidity — The backbone of the vintage. Taut, vibrating, lively acidity
• Minerality — Chalk, limestone, almost saline. Particularly pronounced in Blanc de Blancs
• Citrus freshness — Lemon, grapefruit, green apple
• Taut structure — Lean, linear, without breadth or opulence
• Enormous aging potential — These champagnes will age for decades

The comparison to 1996 suggests itself — and it is justified. Both vintages stand for high acidity, Chardonnay dominance and longevity. Whether 2016 will match the legendary 1996 remains to be seen. The potential is there.

Chardonnay: The Star of 2016

Chardonnay was the great grape variety in 2016. The cool conditions and high acidity played perfectly into the variety's hands. Blanc de Blancs from Grand Cru sites of the Côte des Blancs — Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger — are among the most exciting champagnes to come to market in recent years.

Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims was also successful, though somewhat less consistent. The frost-damaged vineyards naturally had less material, and some Pinot champagnes seem almost too austere in their youth. Patience is key here.

Pinot Meunier had the hardest time — the variety needs a bit more warmth and ripeness than 2016 offered. Meunier-dominated champagnes from this vintage are rare and often less convincing than the Chardonnay or Pinot Noir-based wines.

2016 is not a vintage for quick enjoyment. These champagnes need time, air and patience. Those who drink them too young will be greeted with acidity and closed character. Those who wait will be rewarded with champagnes that recall the greatness of the legendary 1996s.

My Tastings

14 champagnes from 2016 — and every single one fascinated me. The quality is remarkably consistent, which is astonishing given the difficult starting conditions. The growers who had material made excellent champagnes from it. The natural selection through frost and hail was brutal, but the result speaks for itself.

I was particularly impressed by the single-vineyard champagnes — parcel wines from Grand Cru sites that show the quality of the vintage in its purest form.

Drinking Window and Aging Potential

Most 2016s are currently still young and closed. The high acidity needs time to integrate. My recommendation: the simpler Brut champagnes can be drunk now, vintage champagnes benefit from 3-5 years of bottle aging, and Prestige Cuvées should be cellared for at least 10 years.

The aging potential of the best 2016s is enormous — 20-30 years is realistic.

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