Ayala and Chardonnay: a relationship with a system
When I think of houses that build their style consistently around Chardonnay, Ayala comes to mind fairly quickly. The house from Aÿ, founded in 1860 and part of the Bollinger Group since 2005, has long made Chardonnay the backbone of its style. With Le Blanc de Blancs A/19, Ayala is now bringing out the second edition of a concept that launched last year with A/18. For me as an enthusiast, this is one of those cases where a label tells you more than you'd initially think.
What does the new label principle mean?
The "A" simply stands for Ayala, the number after it for the harvest year. Sounds simple, and at its core it probably is. But behind it lies an idea I find quite appealing: each edition is meant to show a different facet of Champagne's Chardonnay Terroirs. Not as a fixed Cuvée formula, but as a kind of ongoing project. A/18 is now followed by A/19, and according to the house, further vintages are set to follow, each with its own focus. It reminds me a bit of the idea behind some single-vineyard projects from other houses, only here as a vintage-based series rather than a fixed series of parcels.
Six crus, one grape variety
For A/19, the grapes come from six Grand-Cru and Premier-Cru vineyards: Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Cuis in the Côte des Blancs, as well as Vaudemange in the Montagne de Reims. Anyone who has looked into Chardonnay in Champagne knows how different these sites can be. Cramant and Le Mesnil are generally considered very mineral-driven and structuring, Chouilly often comes across as a bit more open and accessible earlier, while Vaudemange, as a Montagne de Reims site, brings a different soil structure into play than the classic Côte des Blancs. The fact that Ayala combines these six crus instead of limiting itself to a handful of top sites reads to me like a deliberate statement: the focus here isn't meant to be on one single perfect parcel, but on the range of what Chardonnay can achieve across the region.
The 2019 harvest began in early September, and the house describes the grapes as healthy and of rare quality. I generally take such statements with a pinch of calm skepticism, every house praises its own vintage. The house itself speaks of balanced, elegant and structured wines with good ageing potential.
Extra Brut as house style
Around six years on the lees and a Dosage of 5 grams per liter, so Extra Brut, that's no coincidence at Ayala, it's a principle. All of the house's Blanc de Blancs are made this way. Personally, I find this approach appealing because it gives the Chardonnay plenty of room to show its own structure, without being masked by too much sweetening. Six years on the lees is also far from a mere formality, it's noticeably more than legally required for a vintage Champagne, and it builds a depth that I sometimes miss in young Chardonnay Cuvées.
Ayala next to Bollinger: two separate worlds
What I find interesting about the Ayala and Bollinger constellation: even though both houses belong to the same group, their styles remain clearly distinct. Bollinger traditionally leans heavily on Pinot Noir, while Ayala builds its identity around Chardonnay. CEO Hadrien Mouflard describes the Blanc de Blancs as the house's signature Champagne, and that matches the impression I get from Ayala's range overall.
New winery, new possibilities
I also find the background fascinating: in 2026, Ayala opened a new winery in Aÿ, with 120 small stainless steel tanks for micro-vinification separated by cru and grape variety. Only grapes are delivered, everything is vinified on site. With a total of 70 crus, 50 of them Chardonnay sites, supplied by more than 100 growers, this theoretically opens up enormous possibilities for capturing individual Terroirs more precisely. The fact that the house's own seven hectares have been organic certified since the 2025 harvest fits the picture of a house that is visibly investing in infrastructure and direction right now.
My conclusion
I haven't tried A/19 yet, and the disgorgement date, bottle count, and price aren't known so far either. But the concept alone appeals to me: a series that brings together different Chardonnay Terroirs year after year, with a consistent Extra Brut style and plenty of aging time in the cellar. As a Chardonnay fan, A/19 is already on my list of Champagnes I definitely want to pour into a glass at home, as soon as it becomes available.