Champagne Mathelin

Champagne Mathelin

I've tasted 3 champagnes from Champagne Mathelin — enough to form a solid impression. The house is based in the Vallée de la Marne, Aube / Côte des Bar, Premier Cru, Montagne de Reims, works with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and shows a clear signature style in its range.

Mathelin is a producer I encountered early on my champagne journey — and one that left a lasting impression. The house cultivates vineyards in three regions of Champagne: Vallee de la Marne, Montagne de Reims and Cote des Bar. This is unusual for a small producer and gives Mathelin a grape diversity that's normally only available to larger houses.

What particularly impresses me: Mathelin consistently works with low or zero dosages. Both the Perle de Chardonnay and the Coeur de Meunier are bottled as Brut Nature — meaning without any sugar addition after disgorgement. This requires base wines of high quality and maturity, because there's nothing to mask weaknesses. The fact that both champagnes still taste round and balanced speaks to the work in the vineyard and cellar.

The HVE certification (Haute Valeur Environnementale) shows that Mathelin is also active on sustainability. HVE is the highest level of French environmental certification for agriculture and requires, among other things, a reduction in pesticides and promotion of biodiversity. Not a biodynamic hardcore approach like some trendy producers, but a solid, pragmatic step in the right direction.

Terroir and Location

The champagnes from Champagne Mathelin come from the Vallée de la Marne, Aube / Côte des Bar, Premier Cru, Montagne de Reims. The Montagne de Reims is known for powerful Pinot Noir and structured champagnes. The Vallée de la Marne is the home of Pinot Meunier — fruit-forward, approachable, charming. Premier-Cru sites give the champagnes additional depth and complexity.

The Premier-Cru site Cerseuil on the Montagne de Reims is a special trump card in the portfolio. It delivers grapes with the depth and structure that only Premier-Cru terroir can bring — especially for the Coeur de Meunier, which despite its supposedly simple grape variety achieves remarkable complexity.

The Range

Champagne Mathelin offers 3 different cuvées that I was able to try. In the program: Blanc de Noirs, Brut Nature, vintage champagnes. A focused range that puts quality over quantity.

The Cuvées in Detail

Perle de Chardonnay Millésime 2016

Surprisingly round, calm and balanced despite being Brut Nature — no aggressive edge, but rather depth, maturity and composure. The acidity is present but doesn't force itself. Highlights: mature, balanced, Chardonnay, Brut Nature without harshness.

The 2016 is a beautiful example of what Brut Nature can be when the base wine is right: not an aggressive acid bomb, but a calm, mature champagne with inner balance. The acidity carries the wine without dominating it. The depth comes from the vintage's maturity and the quality of the Chardonnay — probably from the house's better parcels.

My tip: Anyone who has found Brut Nature too harsh should try this champagne. It shows that Brut Nature isn't all the same.

Type: Brut Nature | Vintage: 2016 | Grape varieties: Chardonnay

Cœur de Meunier 2018

A calm, precise Blanc de Noirs with warm, spicy and slightly nutty notes. Aromas of ripe pear, apple, citrus zest and fresh dough with a creamy but taut texture. Highlights: 100% Pinot Meunier, Brut Nature, 52 months on lees, Premier Cru Cerseuil.

Coeur de Meunier — Heart of Meunier — is a fitting name. 100% Pinot Meunier from the Premier-Cru site Cerseuil, 52 months on the lees, bottled as Brut Nature. This is a statement: Meunier can be more than just the fruit-forward gap-filler it was long considered to be. The nutty notes and creamy-taut texture are more reminiscent of an aged Blanc de Blancs than a typical Meunier. Impressive.

Type: Blanc de Noirs | Vintage: 2018 | Grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

Reserve N°4

A soft, fruity champagne with charming, mature notes. Creamy and lively with fine mousse. Highlights: apple & plum, butter & brioche, creamy, HVE-certified.

The Reserve No. 4 is the most approachable champagne in the range and shows a different side of Mathelin: soft, fruit-forward, uncomplicated. The butter and brioche notes suggest extended lees aging, and the creamy mousse makes it the ideal aperitif champagne. No overthinking, just enjoy.

Type: Brut | Grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

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Conclusion

Mathelin is a producer who convinces me with his consistency. The Brut Nature champagnes show that quality begins in the vineyard here, and the diversity of terroirs gives the range a breadth that's exciting. The Coeur de Meunier particularly impressed me — a champagne that proves Pinot Meunier works as a soloist when the site is right and you give the grape time.

Region Vallée de la Marne, Aube / Côte des Bar, Premier Cru, Montagne de Reims
Grape varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Styles Blanc de Noirs, Brut Nature, vintage champagnes
Vintages 2016, 2018
Tasted champagnes 16

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