Derot Delugny

Derot Delugny

I've tasted 3 champagnes from Derot Delugny -- and this house is among the most exciting discoveries I've made recently. The reason: Fromenteau. This is the name used in Champagne for Pinot Gris, a grape variety that has almost disappeared here. Derot Delugny is one of the few producers still cultivating this historic grape variety and turning it into champagne.

Terroir and Location

The grapes come from the Vallée de la Marne and the Aube -- two regions with different character. The Vallée de la Marne brings fruity, approachable base wines, while the Aube contributes warmer, fuller flavors. For Fromenteau, the conditions in both regions are interesting, as the grape variety benefits from the warmth while getting its mineral character from the chalky soils.

Philosophy and Style

Derot Delugny stands for pioneering spirit. Working with Fromenteau shows a house that sees tradition as an opportunity, not a limitation. Of course, the classic grape varieties are also vinified -- Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The style is purist, with a tendency toward dry dosages. Spontaneous fermentation and minimal intervention show a natural approach.

The Range

Three cuvées that couldn't be more different: a pure Fromenteau champagne, a mineral Blanc de Blancs and a purist Blanc de Noirs. Each bottle tells a different story.

The Cuvées in Detail

Retour en Avant

The highlight. A champagne made from pure Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) -- and a taste experience you can't find anywhere else in Champagne. Unusually spicy with earthy notes, lime, mint and garrigue herbs. Structured on the palate with a long peppery finish and enormous complexity while maintaining freshness. The 2018 vintage and four years on lees give the wine maturity and depth.

Anyone who drinks this champagne immediately understands why it's a shame that Fromenteau has almost disappeared. The spicy, peppery aromas are completely different from anything that Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier deliver.

My tip: Definitely try it if you get the chance. This kind of thing exists almost nowhere.

Type: Brut | Vintage: 2018 | Grape varieties: Fromenteau

Hors Pair

A precise Blanc de Blancs with fresh citrus notes and a clear line. The acidity is present but well integrated, the style seems clean, calm and focused. After the explosive Retour en Avant, the Hors Pair is almost meditative -- a champagne that holds back and lets the terroir speak. Salty, citrusy and very clear.

Compared to the Retour en Avant, the Hors Pair naturally lacks the exotic character, but it shows a different strength: precision and purity.

Type: Blanc de Blancs | Grape varieties: Chardonnay

Milieu Naturel – Blanc de Noirs

Pale golden color with fine perlage. Ripe pear, apple, light brioche and fresh nuts on the nose. Dry, taut and pure on the palate with beautiful creamy texture. 100% Pinot Meunier, Brut Nature, spontaneously fermented and unfiltered -- this is natural wine champagne in the best sense. Here, Meunier shows its serious, purist side.

My tip: With a simple plate of smoked salmon and crème fraîche.

Type: Blanc de Noirs | Grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

What Makes Derot Delugny Special?

The Fromenteau. In a region dominated by three grape varieties, cultivating this historic grape variety is a unique selling point. The Retour en Avant is a champagne you can't get anywhere else. Add to that the natural approach and a range that shows what's possible outside the mainstream.

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My Tastings

Conclusion